Grilling Lobster Tails with Shallot Butter and Cucumber 'Noodles'

"No, it's not your traditional backyard barbecue," said Russ Parsons in the Los Angeles Times. But wood-scented sweet lobster, accompanied by a crisp white wine and a gathering of friends, makes for "a wonderful meal on a warm summer night." Rather than reinventing the wheel on this summertime favorite, they've just given it "a gentle twist" to make it seem fresh and new.

With a flavor combination as natural as cucumber and dill, you need only a gentle tweaking. Rather than slice the cucumbers crosswise into coins, you can get a different effect by shaving them into ribbons.

It's just a small change but the difference is striking. Instead of this unruly stack of wheels that roll all over the plate, you've got a mound of beautiful noodles that range in color from ivory to celadon. Because the cucumbers are sliced so thin, the texture is pasta-like too, with a pleasing hint of crispness.

Dress them very simply with only a little bit of Champagne vinegar and some snipped dill. You don't need to add any oil at all because the cucumbers have so much juice of their own.

Though the ribbons can be sliced a couple of hours in advance, don't season them until the last minute. Otherwise, the salt will draw the moisture from the cucumbers, making them limp and soggy.

This crisp-tender texture and subtle flavor make these cucumber noodles a perfect match for grilled lobster. And so does its ease of preparation. As simple as lobster is to prepare, getting it just right takes attention. It's good to have a dish that's a no-brainer to pair it with.

Ingredients:
1/4cup ( 1/2 stick) butter, at room temperature
2 tablespoons minced shallots
2 tablespoons minced parsley
1 teaspoon lemon juice
2 1/4 pounds cucumbers, preferably hothouse
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons minced dill
2 teaspoons Champagne vinegar
3 (1 1/2-pound) live lobsters

Directions:
1. Put the butter in a small mixing bowl and roughly beat in the minced shallots, parsley and lemon juice with a spatula or fork. Form the butter into a rough log about 5 inches long on a sheet of wax paper. Roll it tightly to form the log into a smooth cylinder and twist the ends to seal. Refrigerate until firm, at least 1 hour.

2. Peel the cucumbers, removing the tough green skin. Then continue peeling, shaving long thin strips like pasta noodles. It's easiest to do this with the cucumber resting on a cutting board, leaving one end of the cucumber unpeeled for a better grip. Keep rotating the cucumber so you're peeling around the seedy center without cutting into it. When you get to the seeds, stop. Discard the center with seeds. You should have about 4 cups of long strips about one-half-inch wide.

3. Heat the grill over a medium-hot fire. In a small saucepan, melt half of the shallot butter over low heat.

4. On a sturdy cutting board using a heavy, sharp chef's knife, kill and halve the lobsters lengthwise. First, drive the point of the knife down through the head of the lobster where the base of the head joins the body, bringing the knife all the way down to split the head in two lengthwise; this will kill the lobster. Continue cutting the lobster in half lengthwise. Remove the vein that runs along the top of the tail (as with shrimp), as well as the sac near the head. Using the back of a heavy chef's knife or the flat side of a kitchen mallet, give the claws a good crack.

5. Brush the lobster meat with the melted butter, place the halves meat-side down over the medium-hot fire. Cook just until flesh is marked and starting to firm, about 2 minutes.

6. Turn the lobsters over, cover the grill, and continue cooking until the meat is firm and starting to pull away from the shell, about 5 to 7 minutes. Brush occasionally with any remaining melted shallot butter. When the lobsters are done, remove from heat to a platter and keep in a warm place.

7. When almost ready to serve, sprinkle the cucumbers with the salt, dill and vinegar; toss to combine. Do not season the cucumbers in advance or they will wilt and become mushy.

8. Cut the remaining chilled butter into 6 coins and place one on top of each lobster tail. Serve immediately with the cucumber strips alongside.

Total time: About 1 hour

Servings: 6